Amsterdam
Well we’re back from four days in Amsterdam and I’ll have to start a detox program for my body. It’s so easy to indulge in so much in that city.
This trip was incredible and a marked difference from my last one. Last time I was there was in January of 2006. My sister and I had great difficulty finding someone to speak English with and were treated to many Dutch phrases that I’m certain were insults. We also saw the seamy underbelly of the city, which in most cases is charming, but in Amsterdam it can be especially seedy.
This trip was different. I’m not certain if it was due to the fact that Amsterdam cracked down on unlicensed coffeeshops and closed a significant portion of the red light district, but the experience was a marked change. Everyone was friendly, the weather beautiful and we were never treated rudely in any interactions. Even the coffeshops seemed cleaner and weren’t full of junkies and techno music. The junkies were bad enough but the techno music was unbearable.
We arrived at about noon on Thursday. After checking in at the hotel, we indulged in the complimentary whisky decanter in our room. Then we headed out in search of a coffeeshop. Our hotel was on a canal, and as soon as we crossed that we found a punk/skateboard shop. I was thrilled.
Next were the coffeshops. We found a couple about two blocks down that became our place of choice. Then we walked about the city; the weather was great and our meanderings and stopping at benches were a nice experience. I don’t remember benches when my sister and I went.
We went to dinner by ourselves rather than with the wedding party as we wanted a bit of time away to ourselves. We went to a restaurant called ‘Knus’ (cozy) and had a great meal. They had a crazy menu, which given Amsterdam makes a weird kind of sense. They had mains like raw ahi tuna lasagna with poppadums and wasabi vegetables. I was so tempted to order it, but I stuck with stuffed chili peppers followed by roquefort croquettes. I clearly felt in a cheesy mood. Mrs. Yanqui had goat cheese on toast followed by red mullet. The desserts were equally amusing as they featured pear and thyme ice with a vodka sauce, but we skipped desserts and just drank our absinthe sours followed by coffees. Absinthe sour, by the way, is not a good drink.
On Friday we did a little shopping trip and then went to wedding party meetings. We did the canal tour of Amsterdam, followed by a Red Light District guided tour which was more than a bit weird. The Dutch pride themselves on tolerance and it’s amusing to see in action. You can stand in one alley and have the oldest church in Amsterdam on one side and a brothel on the other. Next door to the brothel is a childcare that our guide assured us was very expensive and exclusive.
Our friendly guide gave us all tips on which pot, hash and magic mushrooms to try as well as where to go afterwards. So as our tour guide recommended Mexican magic mushrooms followed by a trip to the bar known as ‘cock ring’ we had to laugh. We never went and actually excused ourselves to go look for gifts (for the families) and cigars (for me) instead of going to the Erotic Museum. We later asked about the Erotic Museum exhibits with our Danish friend who went with his wife.
“So, what do they have?”, we ask.
“Mainly just photographs.”
“Like, porn”, I query.
“No, they’re like photos. Photos of erotica throughout the years and what people used… actually, yes, it is porn. But it’s old porn.”
He’s Danish and they’re pretty permissive with sex, so he said that it didn’t seem like anything special. I don’t think we missed out on much.
Friday night we had dinner with friends and I had a foie gras starter mixed with chocolate that was incredible. I wouldn’t personally think liver and chocolate would go together well, but they do. It was so rich that I only had a half and had to share it because it was a true bomb for a starter. For dinner I had fish, but I wasn’t trying to be healthy, I just misread the menu and expected a steak.
On Saturday we did the big wedding. It was performed in an old building outside the Keukenhof gardens. In keeping with the Dutch tradition there was nothing religious or specific in any way, rather just talking about everybody getting along. It was a nice ceremony and we all had a good time socialising and eating a great lunch.
That night we went to a restaurant that had been totally reserved for us and got the crazy pampering again. They do the funny Belgian thing where they remove the head from the beer with a knife but I still had some good witbiers. We got to experience a bit of the Dutch wedding tradition which involves putting on skits for the new couple. It was quite entertaining.
I think the city has a lot going for it and the experience was so different, I will now actually recommend it to people. It would have been great to have all of you there with us and I look forward to actually doing that.
related articles
- Sabbatical (March 15th, 2009)
- Can I Get a Good Punk Rock Movie? (January 29th, 2009)
- 20 January, 2009; A Truly Historic Day and Misunderestimating Crime (January 20th, 2009)
- A Double Espresso For Me and a Latte For My Giant Rabbit (January 15th, 2009)
- Have a Brilliant Christmas! (December 25th, 2008)
















May 1st, 2008 at 7:27 pm
Amsterdam is a place I have always dreamed of traveling to just because it is something different. Glad you had a safe trip! : ]
May 2nd, 2008 at 4:39 am
Thanks for the great article. My wife and I are dying to go to Europe and this just reminded us why.
May 2nd, 2008 at 9:50 pm
It is a nice town and after this trip I do recommend it. It’s very small so it’s easy to just walk around and while there aren’t a whole lot of ’sights’ (although I’m sure many locals would disagree on that point) it is a friendly place and very easy for foreigners to get along.
I didn’t hit any museums this trip, but I did last time. The Van Gogh museum is really nice and a must for anyone who likes his work. Next time I want to go to the Anne Frank house and some more of the art galleries. It’s a good town for artsy, creative types.
May 4th, 2008 at 5:39 am
The museums are teriffic there- I really like the quaint nature of the town as well. The red light district is a scene, but overwhelming at times.
May 5th, 2008 at 4:03 pm
I like your article and the comments. I will definitely travel Amsterdam also one day.
May 6th, 2008 at 11:09 am
My dream is to go to Amsterdam with my girl friend. I m simply dying to go there.I have heard lots of things from my friends….now its my turn….
May 8th, 2008 at 6:20 pm
That is one place that is a MUST visit for me, I’m looking forward to those coffee shops very much. Thanks for the insight.
May 9th, 2008 at 5:38 pm
Absinthe sours? that just sounds like a bad time waiting to happen. Foie gras and chocolate huh? there is a place in montreal that specializes in foie gras and its pretty famous. Quebec is a place to travel to these days since the pound is so high. I would like to visit the netherlands but I’m poor.
May 26th, 2008 at 1:04 am
I saw a movie that said that “Amsterdam is old fashion, now Bucharest became the new Amsterdam”. Bucharest is Romania’s capital, in case you didn’t know, and I live here. You could try visiting this place… it doesn’t resembles Amsterdam from an architect’s point of view, but the night life surely does.
August 23rd, 2008 at 6:49 am
LOL .. who can explain the different between porn and erotica.
September 21st, 2008 at 12:37 pm
I’m glad to hear that you’re experiences with visiting Amsterdam are getting better and you will now actually recommend the city to people. Indeed a cleanup was held, but probably the weather may also have played a role on your first trip. People tend to get gloomy here in winter.
December 24th, 2008 at 10:48 am
We’ve always found Amsterdam a welcoming place at any time of the year we’ve visited. Our last trip was just 2 months ago and we have another trip planned for 4 weeks time.
Me and my girl are totally in love with the city and reccommend it to anyone who is interested in listening.
The museumplein is great for anyone interested in visiting the museums, otherwise head for the Leidseplein,Warmoesstraat, or the southern part of the city where the majority of tourists don’t visit, btut plenty of fun people do.
Amsterdam makes a great holiday, it just takes a bit of pre planning first so you don’t get stuck in a location you have no interest in.